Wolflamb: the Spanish sustainable fashion firm that will steal your heart

SpyTheir garments, manufactured in Valencian textile workshops, combine design and respect for the environment, as well as exclusivity: they never exceed 100 units

By Sarah Hernando

The Wolflamb story is also that of its designer and creator María Cordero. Founded in 2012, after a short journey with a swimwear brand, this sustainable fashion firm reflects the concerns and desires of the young Galician, who grew up surrounded by fabrics and patterns in the sewing workshop that her mother had in to Coruna. Although he never studied fashion design –life ended up taking him to Madrid to study photography at the Efti school–, Cordero always had a very intimate and special relationship with this discipline, to which he currently devotes much of his life.

Her collections, in which the party and guest clothing line has a lot of weight, start from simple and elegant designs, as well as offering an exclusivity that is rare to find today. And it is that, of each garment only 100 units are manufactured (on many occasions they do not reach fifty). Exclusivity and respect for the environment, since the creator defends the need to buy little and buy well. Concerned about one of the biggest problems in the fashion industry, María Cordero advocates local and proximity production (all her garments are made in local workshops in Valencia, where the firm has its headquarters), defending the viability of a reduced textile industry in Spain. From her concern to defend the sector and her desire to help, an initiative also arose, together with the Modistas Solidarias association, to create protective clothing for health workers during the COVID-19 pandemic.

With designs made with silk and organic fabrics (they do not use non-recyclable synthetic materials since "their footprint on the environment is impossible to erase"), and a magnificent handling of social networks (their creations appear in the accounts of influencers such as María Fernández Rubíes), Wolflamb has managed to reach a large number of consumers who, for now, buy through online commerce and in a small store opened in Valencia just before confinement. We talked with María Cordero about the present and future of her brand, and about the need for change in the textile industry.

Your mother had a tailor-made workshop in A Coruña, is that where your love for fashion began?

Yes, that's where it all started. It was the beginning of the nineties, I was about 6 years old and when I left school I went directly to the workshop, I preferred to spend the afternoons there looking at fashion magazines with all the fashion shows and trends of the moment or watching my mother pattern and sew. She is an artist and my great inspiration, I loved helping her, and that is how I learned many of the things that I apply in my work today.

Could you tell us a bit about your story, did you study fashion design?

Although I always wanted to study design, when the time came I chose to study photography at the Efti School in Madrid. It was a wonderful experience, the creativity and sensitivity that I developed for the image means that today I have a very clear image of what I want the brand to have. Although in the end I did not dedicate myself to it professionally, and a year after finishing my studies I ended up creating my first fashion firm.

How and when did the idea of ​​creating Wolflamb arise?

At the age of 22, I already had a swimwear brand together with my mother, and although I loved what we did, I wanted to continue evolving and growing, so in 2012 I started Wolflamb. For a few years I couldn't dedicate the necessary time to the brand because I was working on other projects, which didn't finish taking shape. But in 2018 I made the decision to give up other projects and dedicate all my time to it. It was risky since I have no partners or investors and I gave up any other income but either I put all my effort into it or it was impossible to get Wolflamb off the ground.

Why did you decide that you were going to work with limited editions of each design?

Two reasons led me to it. On the one hand, because of what the overstock implies for the environment. And on the other hand for exclusivity. I believe that luxury has nothing to do with the final price of a garment. I want my clients to really feel that they are wearing an exclusive piece, we make a maximum of 100 units but sometimes less depending on the design, so maybe there are only 30 units of that garment.

If a design is very successful, have you considered exceeding that figure?

No, at the moment we make a maximum of 100 units, we can version or take out the same design in another color maybe... One of the good things about having your own brand is being able to be faithful to your values ​​or ideas.

Why did you decide to work with workshops within Spain?

Many Spanish brands took their productions to Asian countries to lower costs, putting many people out of work here and exploiting others there. My words may be harsh, but people are not aware of the high price paid for a €19 dress that is produced at €3. It is important to generate employment here, therefore, although my brand is small, I try to do my bit by producing 100% of the collection in Spain. I wish many brands would do it and thus stimulate the sector since many textile professions are almost extinct and many workshops are closing due to lack of demand.

How do you select the workshops you work with?

There are several factors that we take into account. The first is the type of garments and fabrics that they know how to make, since not everyone knows how to work with silk, for example. The second is proximity, they are all located in Valencia, which is where the brand and our workshop are located. I like to spend time in the workshop developing the samples and I don't leave until they are perfect. It is one of the places where I am most inspired.

What weight does craftsmanship have in your brand?

I like things made with care, so the weight they have is important, especially in party pieces, which are the most delicate and are made with completely handmade processes.

How important is sustainability at Wolflamb? Do you consider yourself a sustainable firm?

Today it is impossible to be 100% sustainable, what we do try to do is generate the least environmental impact and pay the correct or fair price for the materials and manufacture of our garments. Since it is as important to be sustainable with the environment as it is also socioeconomically. We work constantly to try to improve every day.

What are those steps you are taking towards sustainability?

We use materials of natural vegetable or animal origin, some of them organic. But we do not use synthetic materials such as polyester or nylon, since the mark they leave is impossible to erase. Now I'm on the hunt for organic silk, but there are hardly any suppliers that make it and the price is quite a bit higher, which would drive the price of the garment up a lot. It is difficult to find the balance. We also do not use plastic elements in our packaging, which is made from recycled cardboard, tissue paper and dried flowers. Finally, by manufacturing nearby we avoid transporting our garments which also helps to pollute less.

What kind of materials do you use?

I am a lover of silk in all its versions, satin, chiffon, bambula or georgette. And also linen, viscose, cotton or rayon.

How would you define the aesthetics of your firm?

Stylish with a fun twist. Simple.

Where do you find inspiration?

Well, it depends, but it's quite random, in one place, a pattern, in a photograph. In short, when it comes, you must not let it go.

How is your creative process?

I usually work the other way around, first I select the materials, patterns and colors that I want to use in the collection and then I make the designs. Where everything really comes to life is in the development of the sample that we make in the workshop, I change the neckline or the length of the garment, I add details... It is the part that I like the most of the whole process.

What team of people make up Wolflamb?

We are a small team, my mother Silvia works with me managing the productions and doing the samples together with Paquita and Jose. Sara our customer manager who accompanies our clients in the process of purchase, return and resolves all her doubts. Natalia our community manager brings life to our social networks. Carlos is the marketing manager. I like the close relationship and connection with all of them, since without my team none of this would be possible.

Did you expect the success it has had?

I don't know if I should call it success, but something I do know is that if you make an effort and put a lot of love and passion into what you do, you end up having some kind of result. So I am happy and even more so in these times of being able to carry out such a personal project.

What role have social networks played in the development of your firm?

Today social networks and influencers or celebrities have managed to make small projects known to the world, in the case of Wolflamb it is something totally organic, since we do not campaign with them. For which I am very grateful to them for all the support.

What are your sales channels? Only online or also in a multi-brand store?

Only online, and we have a small store in Valencia that we just opened a week before the state of alarm. Go figure…

Do you work with two collections a year, or with a continuous trickle of designs? Why?

I work with two main collections a year and two small capsules, one for summer and the other for Christmas. For us, launching new garments every week implies giving very little value to the garments and the work behind them. In the end, the client sees what happened two weeks ago as something old and she is not interested. It is not our business model, we like to add value to what we do.

Could you tell us what the next steps are for your brand?

For now, let's see how we progress this year and the next. There is still a lot of uncertainty with the COVID-19 issue and we don't know how it can affect the fashion sector again.

Where do you see Wolflamb in 10 years?

In 10 years I hope to remain as connected with my clients as I am today. These last few months have given me the opportunity to talk more with them, to find out what they want, how they feel and what they like. If I have learned something important, it is to live in the present and try not to project too much. Of course I would love for the brand to grow year after year and open stores around the world, but right now I am only focused on the stability of the brand and being able to continue enjoying what I do.

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